Emerging from my burrow on the first day of March 2017, it has been a long hard winter. Temperatures are still pretty low and a cold wind blows however there is a blue sky as the sun struggles to bring forth spring. It is Baba Marta day once again. I wrote in detail about this annual event in my blog last year. Once again stalls have been selling martenitsi in the lead up to this celebration and will continue to do so until the end of the week. You can see a friend of mine in the photo. with her mother many weeks have been spent making these. The best are made from local wool and beads. This year I receive seven, worn on my wrist, from my increasing circle of friends. 'Pizho and Penda' are hanging on my door. Text messages are exchanged with distant friends containing images of cards just as we would once have sent cards through the post in my youth. New decorations have been installed at the "Compass" on the way to the sea garden. To celebrate I have lunch at "Candles" restaurant along the street where Jordan regales me with tales of his new venture, more of that in a future post. The evening finds my neighbours and I drink rakia and eat the last of the season's pickled cabbage to celebrate.
Hopping around my calendar I discover that March is a very busy month as we all emerge from our hibernation. I attend a performance by the Symphony Orchestra in the Opera house on Tuesday evening, the first of a series. The following morning, 3rd March, reveals national flags adorn buildings and balconies. Traditional costumes emerge as the annual "Liberation Day" celebrations begin. The air is filled with music from the pipes and drums accompanying dancing in the street. Families get together for a meal. I observe the odd group parading political slogans but this is mainly a time to rejoice. In the evening the Bulgarian Navy forms up for a ceremony at the entrance to the Sea Garden. It is bitterly cold but a huge crowd gathers, young and old alike, holding flags and listening to the military band. At 19:00 hours the ceremony begins. Speakers describe the events and the heroes, Russian and Bulgarian, of the fight for liberation. The torch is lit and the troops inspected.
Hats removed and everyone kneels as the national anthem is played. Rising, the sky explodes in a magnificent firework display. Events like this are taking place all over Bulgaria, they value their freedom and democracy here, after 500 years of Turkish rule who would not. Is it an omen that exceptionally cold winds have been blowing over Europe this winter? The troops march off, the military band the last to leave the square. The days progress with many celebrations of 'Name days' and birthdays. Rakia features heavily in these celebrations along with salted fish and slices of dried meats which always remind me of South Africa.
I start to meet friends for coffee in the centre once again as the weather slowly improves, well almost, one day it will appear sunny but is still cold outside the next will be overcast and rain ensues. The days move on and, on the evening of the 8th I attend the Opera House for a performance of "Mama Mia" the musical performed by the Varna Children's Opera. Along with friends of mine, three delightful ladies from TE ArT studio. As they cut my hair their English improves, my Bulgarian not so much! We were entertained to a lively performance which grabbed the audience from the opening ABBA number to curtain fall. I was amazed at the energy and the voice of the lead female supported by a diverse and talented troupe. Subtitles were shown of the English lyrics but not of the Bulgarian language speaking parts. Fortunately I had seen the movie, what are sisters for lol! Unfortunately I only had my phone with me to catch these glimpses of the event.
The month progressed with more lunches during the weeks and Saturday afternoons at the "House" partaking of food and drink from the local menu whilst watching the Rugby. England defeated by Ireland denying us the record of undefeated games. As 'Facebook' followers will know I also had an accidental look at the harbour but more of that later. Again in a previous post (2015 September Coincidences...) I have described a visit to one of the two Roman Baths in Varna, well after all this time I discovered the 'Communist era' version. Frustratingly it is just up the road from me too. Thereby hangs a tale...
I was told it was near 'Piccadilly'. "I know where Piccadilly is", says I, except that I didn't or at least not what I thought. Piccadilly is not district, it turns out that the Bulgarian name on a large supermarket which bears the logo of a supermarket trolley on speed translates as, you guessed it. There are several in Varna! Having found the Spa near the Varna Mall it was only 5 Leva to enjoy indoor and outdoor pools fed by hot mineral water underground springs. I shall be using it regularly from now on. If you look at the album you will see why I didn't recognise it as a spa before now.
March is proving to be very changeable, sunshine one day followed by cold overcast days or rain then back to sunshine. The cold wind from the sea persists but beware the evening temperature drop which can catch you unawares if you remain out for too long. All that said I am getting out and about more now during the day. Blossoms start appearing on the trees. Martenitsi fly off the wrists to adorn the lower branches as dictated by tradition. Still haven't seen a stork though the swans have now departed from the seafront.
I was going to see the opera 'Aida' but changed my mind when, over coffee at 'The Brick' in downtown Varna, Valentin from the Festival Hall told me about a coming performance by the Kazakhstan orchestra. I chose correctly. This proved to be an amazing event and I was pleased that I took my camera along. The full title of the event is KAZAKH STATE ACADEMIC ORCHESTRA OF FOLK INSTRUMENTS NAMED AFTER KURMANGAZY. The latter is a district in Atyrau Province, Kazakhstan. The quality of performance as a whole, the solos by members of the main orchestra, the three singing stars all brought together by the joyful conductors lifted the heart and raised a ten minute standing ovation at the end of the concert.
If you ever get the chance to see a performance grab it. The unique instruments played with such skill, the range of musical styles and the smiles on their faces as they played all lived up to the opening sight of the colourful dress which created an impressive image as they took their places on the stage. The main soloists obviously enjoyed themselves. The male soloist held a note for so long that he received an ovation in his own right which prompted a later encore just to prove that he could. The interaction between the conductor and female soloist was almost a silent screen love affair to the delight of all. No stuffiness here all present for the love of music in its own right. I have tried to capture both the instruments and the spirit of the event in my photographs.
I was going to complete the month in one go but this is getting rather long so I have decided to create a second instalment to post after this. In case you are wondering I shall complete my Rila and other adventures over the next few days. Surprising the difference some sunshine makes. These will include the "Tall Ships Regatta" and a trip to "Ruse" on the Danube amongst other interesting titbits about life here in Bulgaria. In the mean time here is the link to the
"March Hare" photo album as it stands at the moment. I hope that you enjoy the journey as much as I do. Incidentally I would like some feedback on the text descriptions I include on several of the photos. I hope that they make the albums more meaningful to the viewer. Good idea or not? More photos described or less or about right.
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