Touring Buda and Pest...

As I mentioned yesterday I pre-booked tours in Budapest to guarantee a visit to the Parliament building. Searching the internet I found "City-Discovery.com" (the link is on the left of the home page) who provided the staples for the rest of my trip across Europe. With temperatures consistently in the high 30s (96°F) during the whole of July and August; I didn't do much exploring by foot. My day started with "Turkish" breakfast at a cafe around the corner before returning to the hotel as my pickup was at 10:30 hours prompt. A taxi whisked me away across the river to our starting point. No open top bus this time but a luxury, air conditioned coach.

The tour was scheduled to last for four hours including the highlight of the day. We assembled outside the Rudas Thermal Baths. Constructed 500 years ago during Turkish rule, traditionally men and women bathe separately during the week but mix at weekends.  The party assembled and we are on our way. No headphones this time, a real live guide to explain the wonders of Buda Hill and other places of interest on the way. I did not do justice to the route yesterday so here goes as we travel to both different and familiar places here in Buda and Pest, once rivals now the beating heart of Hungary.

Yesterday I captured a couple of photos of the "Széchenyi István (Chain)" bridge. This time we were up close and actually crossed the bridge from Buda to Pest. This was a huge piece of engineering and the first permanent bridge across the Danube in the whole of Hungary. Opened in 1849, it was designed by an English engineer and built by a Scottish one though largely funded by a Greek merchant. Leading to the Funicular and Buda Castle at one end and Széchenyi (formerly Roosevelt) Square at the other it carries both automobile and metro trams in both directions.

As we drove along the lower riverside Friedrich Born rkp. we see the grand University building constructed in 1865 contrasting with the modern Bálna (Whale) commercial, cultural, entertainment and hospitality centre. Opened in 2013 it has a great market hall where residents and tourist mix to by fresh produce, traditional arts and crafts, antiques or everyday tools. Rumoured to be one of the best markets in Europe. On we go past another art deco building, the Gellért Hotel and Thermal Baths which opened its doors in 1918. Have a browse on the internet to see what is inside!

We now turn our attention to the citadella, a place I hopped off at yesterday. This, however, is a drive past but affords different views. After the Hungarian uprising in 1848 the fortress was built in 1851 by Hungarian forced labour for the Hapsburg (Austrian) Empire. Austro-Hungary wasn't established until 1867. Once the citadel was given to the city in 1899 they soon knocked down the walls. The "Liberty Statue" shown here was erected by the south east bastion in 1947 to celebrate the overthrow of Nazi occupied Hungary by the Soviets in WWII.  Recent history notes that soviet troops fired down into the city to defeat the anti-communist Hungarian revolution of 1956.

We retrace our steps past the neo-Renaissance Várkert Bazár. Building commenced in 1875, originally its arcades were filled with shops, a popular place to stop as you sailed along the Danube. Next we have the Funicular, once the only public access to the palace in Buda Castle. Constructed in 1928 it was the world's second. It has a 95 metre long track and carries 24 passengers in each of its carriages.  You will be able to identify the location and landmarks from the photos I took over two days. In this small area where the road circles the roundabout there is the Chain bridge on one side with the tunnel under castle hill opposite adjacent to the Funicular. Construction commenced a century before I was born and the first foot traffic allowed in 1856 followed by road in 1857.  The "0" kilometre monument is also to be seen here but it was hidden by the bushes when I took the photographs. You'll have to hop off and walk when you visit.

We look up to see the castle then Fishermans Bastion and Matthias Church beyond. Here we will stop for a guided foot tour of Castle Hill. Unfortunately the castle is closed temporarily but there are plenty of sights to see. Part with your cash at a local winery or textile craft shop if you wish or wander around taking photographs as I did. Interestingly you look down upon the Parliament building across the river. Pest always felt the poor relation. The visit to the Parliament will have to wait as this post is getting rather long.

Here we are, on top of the hill, lords of all we survey.
The architecture and the functions of the buildings, from post office to the mayors parlour identify this as a castle community rather than just a palace. To my mind Matthias Church and the Fishermans Bastion dominate rather than the palace itself (temporarily closed at the moment). King Stephen I sits regally on his horse whilst lesser mortals gaze in awe. "Just another photo dad" as you will see when you look through the album. Surrounded by all of this architecture and history the pose is all important. A group of bikers however, appreciated the view.

Matthias Church is situated in the heart of Buda Castle was originally constructed in 1015 in Romanesque style but the present Gothic building was erected in the mid 14th century. Originally named after the Virgin Mary it later took the name of King Matthias. Several coronations have taken place here.  Fishermans Bastion beyond was constructed between 1895 and 1902. The seven towers represent the seven Magyar tribes whom we saw briefly yesterday and would come to visit again today. Our guide is very knowledgeable and conducts us around the usual must sees and some interesting asides . The views from the castle are amazing as you can see from the photos and this must be a very nice place to live, apart from all those peasants arriving in coaches of course.

We depart, this is a four hour tour including the star attraction which we haven't even come close to yet. I begin to worry as our route winds its way back across the river to Pest past the Opera House opened in 1884 and a typical example of 19th century Hungarian architecture, we eventually stop for a break back at Heros Square. This time I can get up close and personal with the seven Magyar tribal leaders who gave birth to what we now know as Hungary.

Construction of the monument began in 1896 semi-circular  with the cenotaph in the centre, the top of the column depicts Archangel Gabriel, who holds the Hungarian Holy Crown and the apostolic double cross in his hands. Popular with tourists for the larger than life bronze Magyar chieftains, the monument also contains the tombs of several important national leaders and the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. King Stephen I renamed himself from the leader of the Magyar when he founded the ruling dynasty for centuries to come.

We board the bus leaving behind the art galleries and the city garden and continue along now the familiar roads until we come to a halt seemingly near the centre of the city. Everyone off, this is the end of the tour. It does state that, whilst you are picked up from your hotel, they do not deliver you back! What about the Parliament Building? We have now been out for over three of the four hours already. "Quickly now, follow me" says the guide. "Oh ye of little faith." says I to myself for there, around the corner, ....

I hope that you will enjoy this album "Touring Buda and Pest", some of the places will be familiar but with a different perspective others we have just visited today.