Sunday evening of the 26th finds me back at the Varna Festival and Congress Centre. This is my second opportunity to hear the magnificent pipe organ which frequently forms the backdrop to the stage. Constructed and installed by Schuke Orgelbau, Potsdam, Germany in 1988, at that time situated in the GDR as the wall just excluded the district from West Berlin. According to
Wikipedia the organ has III / P manuals and 53 registers. There is an extensive account of the company founded by Alexander Schuke in 1820 which has many illustrious organs to its name. The page makes fascinating reading bound up not only with the manufacture of great organs but also the collapse of communism and the nearly disastrous affect on the company.
Strategic highlighting of this huge instrument creates a dramatic atmosphere as the audience take their seats. The concert programme consists of works from J. S. Bach and Polish composers played by Bogdan Carlo, a famous Polish organist who graduated from the Gdansk Music Academy. Each piece is explained by the organist, translated through an off stage interpreter. The assistant is there not only to turn the score but to adjust some of the organ stops during some of the more intricate compositions.
A sunny day on the 28th prompted a longer visit to Varna quayside with my camera. Again Facebook followers will have seen a photograph recorded on my mobile phone which prompted this decision. Devoid of both shipping and tourists I could wander around and take some interesting photographs before partaking of a light lunch in "Happy". Spoilt for choice really as the Passenger Terminal building has been taken over by a selection of good restaurants. There is also a duty free shop for those who arrive from outside the EU by ship, infrequently these days though I am told that the Black Sea ferry is to start up again. I am getting ahead of myself.
Entering through the old dock gates my fist view is of the classic car which sits in front of the recently constructed 'Pier' restaurant. I am slightly surprised that it has survived the winter. The backdrop of naval vessels changing to dockside cranes as I walk around the car proves an interesting sight. Turning left to walk along the quayside the "Cargo" bar and cafe looms large. The "Tall Ships" regatta last year lead to a refurbishment to this area of the passenger dock at the end of west beach. There is still enough industry going on to satisfy the working dock enthusiasts amongst you but a fraction of the activity of yore.
The main vehicle entrance, complete with parking charges, now features a small roundabout with flowers, wooden seating and an old anchor as a nautical feature. A close up of the brightly painted "Cargo" bar and cafe, constructed from refurbished shipping containers - what else do you expect with a name like that, children's playground alongside springing to life after a dormant winter. Soon the area will be a mass of visitors from all over the world.
I meander down towards the terminal building as I want to capture the shot I took on my mobile phone the other day. I manage to capture the contrasting skyline featuring the historic cathedral domes, the navy HQ, through to communist tower blocks of the 1960s and the modern hotels and medical university. Seen from early barques to modern liners as the city evolves. Alighting from the "Iron Rail" (the railway station is next to the port\) or disembarking a sailing ship would afford a similar view. I stroll on to the end of the quay passing a lifebelt which is not there just for decorative purposes but evidence of a fully working dock.
Reaching the end of the quay I am looking across at the yacht marina and port authority moorings. Tucked away in a corner awaiting a swab down ready for the summer excursions, the pirate ship "Arabela" lies moored. We used to call them "booze cruises" in Tenerife, perhaps they are more family orientated here. The yacht club lurks behind tall fences in case the hoi polloi should wander in. A few yachts bob on their mooring ropes, more to come in the summer. A cruise from Crimea perhaps?
I take in the contrasting orange working boats of the various Port Authority functionaries, busy little bees against the blue of the water not the sky, before retracing my steps to have a closer look at the Terminal Building. Another anchor on another roundabout denotes the end of the road for cars. Drop of and pick up but do not enter. A commemorative stone, presumably erected in 2006, marks 100 years of the Port of Varna. On the exact spot on the 18th May 1906 Prince Ferdinand I opened the modern port. An anchor lies beside just to make sure that the stone does not drift away. In case there is any doubt a map of Varna is displayed for those disembarking off the passenger ships which crowd the quay, well they do occasionally these days. Just over one hundred years ago it was quicker to travel from Varna to the capital, Sofia, by sea and river than by road.
To give some perspective as to the size of this port I took a photograph of the Black Sea Maritime Control Building across the bay and midway between the two harbour lights. Last year I took some close up shots of this building when I visited Asparuhov (2015 November Rivers of time) across the bridge. The interior of the Terminal Building revealed a Customs office and control point, a duty free shop and not much else. I mentioned earlier that took I lunch at "Happy" situated on the second floor. Climb the stairs, the lift is for Captain Cook patrons only! I was pleasantly surprised with "Happy" as I entered, a display of fresh fruit, tall cabinets of wines and very clean toilets off the foyer all served to impress before I entered the well appointed dining area. Casual sofas or formal dining, the balcony on two sides was not yet in use but wall to wall glass gives a magnificent view from inside too. The photograph of the tug racing by was taken from my table through the glass "wall". A vantage point out on the balcony once the busy summer comes I think. The food and service were excellent too.
Emerging from the restaurant there is a footbridge over the access road. The higher of the two gantries leads to a V-shaped observation deck whilst the lower leads to steps down to the harbour wall and a sea side walk back towards the town. This change in perspective revealed that the anchor roundabout at this end was not the same as the other. What I had mistaken here as the wooden seats revealed itself to be a sun dial. The shaft of the anchor casting the shadow. The huge concrete "jacks" which form there own industrial sculpture whist keeping the sea at bay drew my eye. The Naval Academy is revealed in its past splendour a view not seen at close quarters. Part way along I crossed to the harbour side walkway. The Varna skyline from another perspective. At the end I came across a plaque mounted in the harbour wall commemorating creation of this modern port which still survives and adapts today.
Thursday 30th sees me at the Varna Opera House once more. "Rock of Ages", a musical performed by the Broadway Performance Club, bears a striking resemblance to "Mama Mia" in that it uses the music of 80's bands such as Styx, Whitesnake, Twisted Sister and others to tell the tale. Set in a, soon to be demolished, trend setting club on Hollywood's Sunset Strip the innocent from Kansas who wants to be a famous actor meets the Rock star hopeful and immediately falls in love.
The shy Rocker only admits to friendship though he is in love too. Spaced out club owner gives girl a job as a waitress. Jaded rock star performing with the house band seduces girl. Girl runs off and penniless, falls into the clutches of a "Madam". Jaded rock star moves on, the house band become more popular on their own. Would be Rock star performs with them but evil developer bribes the mayor so that he can demolish the strip. Will the "Strip" be saved? Will boy get back girl? Will developer's son get to open his chocolate shop back in Germany? Go see the musical!
And Friday 31st saw me having my fur trimmed and lunch with the girls at Candles once again.
The End.
Follow the link to view the full
"March Hare" photo album which tells the story of this and the previous post in pictures.
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