Septemvri revealed...

Breakfast over it was time for me to depart Cob Camp in time to purchase a ticket and catch the 10:53 train from Belovo back to Septemvri, arriving there at 11:05. Dessy was kind enough to drop me there and assist with the purchase of my ticket. You will be pleased to know that the UK railways are not the only ones who rely on buses. Issued with my rail ticket I was ushered outside and back onto the car park. A coach was waiting there. "Yes, give the driver my case and board." "No, wait there are two more coaches coming."  After a few minutes said coaches arrived. After much discussion between the drivers and railway staff I boarded the original coach which I had been directed to. The train might not be running but the guard would travel with us. Ten or so minutes later we turned of the A8 down the road into Septemvri. I couldn't help but noticed a huge car graveyard, there are lots of accidents in Bulgaria. The photo was, in fact taken later from the train but shows the car parts each in individual bays and mounted three or four high. No scrambling through a rusting scrap yard here. Oh, a sign for a museum; unfortunately not enough time.

Not so simples, the coach wanted to turn left, policeman he say "No". Was it a demonstration? Is the railway station closed? I could see a large crowd of people down the street, flags and balloons. A market or fair was taking place and the roads were "pedestrianised". The driver set off around the outskirts of Septemvri eventually arriving outside the railway station, the fair about 500 metres away along the road. The plaza in front of the station is a beautiful area to rest, shaded seats and fountains, full of trenches when I arrived back at the end of the week. I hope that it is restored to it's original state when works are completed.

Entering this large station made me wonder why there was no hotel or guest house in Septemvri? Is the place larger than I thought or has it declined in the modern age? So many questions, so little time! The lack of a train was immediately obvious. The lines were closed. This must be causing major disruption on this main line. As part of the upgrade to accommodate high speed trains Plovdiv and Sofia railway stations were undergoing major reconstruction, so to is Septemvri. Whilst some of the old concrete bunkers built during the communist era would welcome an upgrade I wonder if the quaint stations like Belovo will disappear too. I took some photographs of the workings but have decided to write a separate post on the subject.

A frame containing various photographs on the wall outside the ticket office reveals some of the history of this line from the age of steam to the coming of the diesel engine the line was developed to join the Ottoman Empire to that of the Austro-Hungarian. Constantinople to Vienna. Nothing changes it would seem as the EU attempts to bring road and rail links to all its borders. The line between Plovdiv and Septemvri was completed in 1872 before continuing on to Belovo and, ultimately, Sofia. German money as behind the development, financed by Baron Hirch. The concept now is that high speed trains will run all the way from Hamburg and Berlin through to the coast at either Varna and Burgas or both. I entered the ticket office to purchase the ticket for the next part of my journey. There are three trains a day, 08:25, 13:44 and 16:50. I had already decided upon midday. A journey of some five or so hours would still see me arrive in daylight and afford spectacular views along the way.

A wander around led me to discover this monument almost at the end of the platform. A communist uprising against the government took place in September 1923. Various cities on this line featured in the failed attempt. I am assuming that this monument bears some relation to this.  Time for a coffee and some light refreshment. I was directed to a cafe on the other side of the plaza to the right as you exit the station. There is also a "workers" canteen to the left as you exit the ticket office onto the platform. This is tucked away in a building at the end of the platform. It offers hot food and sandwiches, coffee and assorted drinks. Chocolate bars if required. I stocked up for the journey. Seating is basic with two or three oilcloth covered tables outside too. There are some great photos of Bulgarian steam inside too. Mixing with the local railway workers gives rise to conversation of a sort.

I discovered the place when I was trying to find the loo. There is a very modern "Ladies and Gents" underground right at the end of the station. 0.60 Lev (60 Sendinki) is the standard charge. To reach the loos you must negotiate a long flight of steps. Joined up thinking does not prevail here. Ramps and lifts are installed in some places yet not in other essential locations. I would later negotiate these steps to a  tunnel under construction to get to my departure point. On my return journey I discovered that there is an easily accessible tunnel with ramps at either end but this is outside the new station so, presumably, not part of the modern plan.  You can now see where we are going. There was an attempt to close this line a few years ago but a local petition kept it open. Depicted in both languages a very popular attraction throughout the year.

Emerging from the tunnel under construction is this my train waiting on its narrow gauge track. There were two narrow gauge railways in Bulgaria but only this one remains. Just as well, it runs for 125 km through some spectacular countryside into the mountains. The journey time is some five hours or so end to end passing through the highest railway station in the Balkans. This is my destination and I hope that you will enjoy the journey with me.

A sign confirms that this is, in deed, Septemvri Station the terminus of this unique line.  I am early for my train so I have a wander along to the engine shed. Wheels and axles are undergoing maintenance. There is a long pit under the track on this siding just as you would find in a garage before hydraulic ramps became the vogue. I am not permitted to take photographs because of security. Another official shrugs his shoulders. "Sprechen sie Deutch?" "Ein bischen". Take your photos at the other end is the gist of the conversation.

I relax in the shade, peruse my DK Eyewitness guide book for a while then just relax in the mellow sunshine as other passengers arrive. Some go straight to a carriage to stake out their seats before alighting for a quick smoke or a cool drink from the water fountain. A couple who appear to be very much in love, I shall board a different carriage.



I take out my mobile phone, no missed calls or messages but I do confirm that it is our train he he! Departure time approaches I board and select a seat ready for the next adventure.

View my expanding  "Trip to Rila" photo album.