My trip to Rila, which should include Pirin as this mountain range surrounds the end of the line, terminated in Dobrinishte where I stayed for a few days. Most people refer to Bansko about 6km away but I found that Dobrinishte had more character and I was pleased that I chose it as my base for the visit. I was fortunate to meet a young student who was studying English and she gave me a tour around the town on the afternoon of the 29th September 2016. This gave me many insights into the history and customs of the town and introduced me to many local people. We would renew our friendship at the Pomorie Folk Dance Festival in June 2017 which I have also posted here.
As I mentioned in a previous post I stayed at the Victoria hotel (sadly now closed) and we commenced our walk from there. Strolling through the town square Elena pointed out the first hotel to be built here, this was a popular ski resort even in Communist times, and the favourite cafe/bar used by the locals. As we wandered down I side street I was conscious of the stunning view afforded by the forest and peaks of the surrounding Pirin mountain range. Dobrinishte has a long history and even disappeared from the map for over 100 years.
This became apparent as we arrived at the church of St Peter and Paul. This church was built in the 19th century and contains relics saved from the original St Mary's church located on a different site. These include four ancient wooden icons which survived the fire. The church is typical of many Orthodox churches which are quite dark inside dominated by dark wood, candles and incense. Typically photography is not allowed but I was able to get a good description and history of the church due to my translator.
We wandered on, refreshing ourselves from one of the many local springs on this warm September afternoon. Passing one of the many original houses which is being restored Elana led me inside and we talked to the artisans working there. A Russian family is restoring this particular house which must have belonged to a well to do member of the community, perhaps a merchant or a farmer. There is an old barn, outhouses and an orchard to the rear. Traditional building methods are being used preserving as much of the original structure and woodwork as possible so that old and new work will merge into a unified structure.
The kitchen and ovens are outside the main house to reduce heat during the hot summer months. A servant or two came in handy. Flagstones and bricks have been salvaged to be reused. A lot of love and cash is going into this project. This was a most satisfying visit as I am very interested in woodwork. We emerged and wandered on down the cobbled street. A pile of corn husks outside one of the houses reminded me of how closely Bulgarians still live with the land. The allotted field for each family produces food to sustain the family throughout the year.
We arrive at the new St Mary's church. This is on the site of the original church in Dobrinishte. It was destroyed by fire with some of the inhabitants of the town inside when the Ottoman Empire invaded Bulgaria. When the town's inhabitants returned the site was left as a memorial and St Peter and Paul was built on a different site. We entered and had a long conversation with the curator. Still orthodox this is a bright and airy church. The interior is still being worked on. The artist who still has to complete the frescos on the remaining walls. After our discussion and my questions I was surprised to be given permission to take a photograph and I felt very privileged to do so.
Crossing a river Elena explains that once there were two separate villages, now there is a bridge and Dobrinishte is one. On we went, practically everyone knows everyone else in this tight community. We had conversations with a pensioner who was shelling beans for the winter, no one retires here there is always work to be done, whether supplying food for the table or splitting logs for the fire. Families support each other. We came across a man sorting pine cones. I discovered that he supplements his income by gathering cones in the forest, sorting and bagging them. A van turns up to collect them and off they go to Germany for use in the Christmas decoration industry there.
We pass two old men sitting on a bench outside a 'bungalow'. Again we stop for a chat and are invited in to see the house which has remained unchanged since he moved on marriage in sixty years ago. Alas his wife has passed on. Bulgarians are very friendly and hospitable. We are given different things to taste and and ice-cream container is opened. I think it is porridge but no, it is unrefined honey the way they eat it here. A spoonful, delicious. I look out of his window, all the produce has come from the garden and his beehives. Once again the Pirin mountains form a dramatic backdrop.
We call in to meet Elena's parents and I am given coffee and home made cake. Father is working on an extension at the bottom of the garden which includes an apartment for rent, though Elena has her eye on it. As me move on we meet other members of her extended family. Always time for a chat. Our next stop is a thoroughly modern spa. The pools are fed with warm mineral water from one of the fifteen underground springs here. Relaxing for a while, a chat with her girlfriend who is working there then we set off back to the centre. Incidentally there is a huge board outside the spa with details of various tours including the Dancing Bear Sanctuary.
Next we call in for a look at one of Elena's favourite restaurants then a and a bar. We stop to watch the delivery of winter logs, now a one man job although you will see from photos I had taken earlier in the day they still need to be split for the fire. A back breaking job. As I said no-one really retires here. There is always work to be done even if unpaid. Elana introduces me to the local auto parts man then we have a look around a carpentry shop. This man can turn his hand to anything from a bespoke front door to an ornate carving for the wall.
It is very much like Tenerife it almost appears that business is conducted from the front room of your house. We wander back to the hotel. I have included a couple of views from earlier in the day to complete the tour. Once again I hope that you enjoy the album and my journey....
A tour around Dobrinishte
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