A casual message from a young friend whom I met in Dobrinishte last September, at this point your screen should wobble and we would be at that moment in time just as the old TV programmes used to do, unfortunately I still haven't caught up with that part of the blog so we must press on. Elena is a member of a Folk dance troupe and was in Pomorie where they would be dancing in front of the Municipal building at 11:00 hours on Saturday (the 17th). I wished her luck and hoped that she would enjoy her holiday. That evening (Thursday) I inquired about buses to Pomorie over a glass of Rakia as I sat outside the garage with my neighbours. It was opined that mini buses ran quite frequently from the little bus station destined for Burgas. I had heard of this station before but never established its location so thought no more about it.
I woke to a fine day on Friday morning, whilst checking my emails I browsed Booking.com. Hmm A selection of reasonably priced rooms were available. I booked one for three nights, got my act together, packed a suitcase and set off to find the afore mentioned little bus station. I walked across to the big bus station next to Grand Mall and enquired at the ticket office there. One hour later I was boarding a mini bus from Stand 3 in the big bus station destination Pomorie. We headed out through the town, over the Asparuhovo bridge and on down the coast road. A first on this route for me. Passing through forest, open plains of golden corn on we went until the sea and golden sands appeared on our left. Suitably named "Golden Sands" bus station then on until we stopped on the street in Pomorie and off I got. Journey time - about 2.5 hours. There was a bus in a car park opposite us which gained significance towards the end of my tale.
Time to try out Google Maps on my new EU Roaming Tarif. The Pomorie Residential Apartments Hotel is that way. Except that I couldn't work out whether to go left or right as the blue dot wasn't actually on the high street. Into a taxi across the road and a few minutes later I was deposited at my place of residence. This was after a discussion amongst drivers as no-one seemed sure where it was. 7.5 Leva please. A very pleasant lady emerged from the gate and showed me to my apartment. Some confusion here, she thought I was two adults and two children and I thought it was a hotel. She spoke Russian and Bulgarian and I, of course, spoke English. If you are a couple or family this is a wonderful place to stay but wasted on me.
Unpack and shower then off to explore and find somewhere to eat. I wandered down the street and turned right as instructed by a conference of advisers at the hotel when I enquired about a local restaurant. This looks promising but no it is a 'Wine cellar' I can sit and taste if I wish. I learnt later that Pomorie distils a rather fine brandy exported all over the world. On with my search for food. At the end of the building and down some steps I spied a musician and tables laid out for a feast. Waiters bustled to and from with large plates of Shopska salad. Eventually I managed to speak to someone. Sorry no, private party for 400 guests they could not squeeze me in. I turned and a look of shock spread over my face. Of all the restaurants in Pomorie there was Elena standing in front of me to say hello. She had seen me from a table nearby where she was sitting with her troupe. I now discovered that there were some 900 people from all over Bulgaria performing the following day. About half of them here for dinner.
I wandered off to find sustenance elsewhere eventually discovering the restaurant attached to the Penelope Palace Hotel which offered a fine menu and friendly staff. I also got my first dramatic view of the bay as the sun was setting and the wind grew stronger. Starting with the traditional Shopska salad I was amused at the practical and whimsical oil cans used to serve the olive oil and vinegar. Pork medallions with broccoli and potatoes accompanied by a couple of glasses of wine fortified me for the walk back to the hotel if I could find it. A struggle against the ever increasing wind.
The owner of the complex had agreed to give me a lift to the Municipal Building at 09:30 hours. This would give me time for breakfast at a cafe before the festival started. I was dubious as to the location as there did not seem to be anywhere suitable for the performance other than a car park opposite which would need clearing of vehicles and buses. Presumably this is where I would commence my return journey on Monday. Then it rained! As I was drinking my coffee I received a message from Elena that the festival had been put back to 16:00 hours due to the weather. Just as well as it continued to rain off and on throughout the day including the time of the performance. This did give me time to explore though. I also established that the festival would take place in front of the Theatre building.
Sitting having a cool fruit drink, it was still hot despite the rain, I heard the beating of a drum which grew louder as time progressed. It was around 16:00 hours so I wandered across to see if the various troupes were arriving in procession. Indeed they were, dancing all the way. A splendid sight and most entertaining. All of the dancers arrived on the square and danced in long swirling chains, a host of colours as each traditional costume met another. Troupes had arrived from the four corners of Bulgaria to attend the 8th Annual Pomorie Folk Dance Festival.
After the mass dancing each troupe performed on the naturl stage created by the entrance to the Theatre building. There were also traditional 'choirs' performing too. The rain, intermittent by this time, did not dampen the spirits and everyone enjoyed themselves. I am sure that there were awards but I found everyone a star. It was interesting to see the different costume and dance steps from the different regions to. I also took a group photo of the Varna troupe, my home town for the moment. As the festival died down I went in search of dinner at a local restaurant down one of the side streets where I was made most welcome. The downside, more rain and a 22 Leva taxi ride back to the hotel. I discovered that I was in the area of 'new' Pomorie.
Sunday I spent locally as the sun was now shining and the beach inviting. The usual water sports, beach umbrellas and and abundance of food and drink oulets give 'new' Pomorie its independence from the old town. I took a photograph of one of the huge new developments from the pier in 'old' Pomorie. Everything is on a grand scale here with plenty of facilities for young children too. Hence the abundance of apartment hotels, a safe place for a family holiday.
Monday morning and I got a lift in to the bus station in front of the Municipal building. Enquiring at the ticket office I discovered that buses from Burgas to Varna stop at the 'new' Pomorie bus station very near where I had set off from that morning and the place which I thought was a car park on arrival. If the mini bus had pulled into it I might have realised. It is also disguised by the fact that the ticket office is to one side, the obvious building housing a florist and a souvenir shop. I also discovered that I could get a local mini bus number 1 to there for the princely sum of 1 lev. Live and learn as they say. I proceeded to the 'new' bus station and purchased my ticket. Leaving Pomorie behind but not before visiting the 'Salt Museum'. I had though the area subject to flooding on the way in but it transpires that Pomorie has a history of 'farming' and exporting sea salt. The first time I saw this was in Thailand so my interest was piqued. Healing firth mud is also extracted from the salt lake giving rise to a number of health spas, some dating back to Roman times.
Don't forget the roses, in bloom all over the region and beyond at this time of year giving rise to a hugh export trade in rose oil. I hope that you enjoy the associated photo album of Pomorie and the Festival.
Pomorie and the Folk Dance Festival
untill next time, happy trails...
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